A Nostalgic Cycling Expedition Across Western Scotland

A recent expedition saw two long-time companions retrace a memorable cycling route across Western Scotland, three decades after their inaugural journey. This week-long adventure, meticulously planned and executed, reaffirmed the enduring allure of cycle touring, the significance of preparedness, and the joy of shared experiences amidst stunning natural beauty.

The inspiration for this renewed journey came from a suggestion by Rob, one of the cyclists, who now resides in the United States. Despite the geographical distance, the opportunity to recreate their youthful escapade proved irresistible. The itinerary closely mirrored their original 1990s tour, commencing in Glasgow and encompassing picturesque locales such as the Isle of Arran, the Isle of Islay, Oban, and the serene expanse of Loch Lomond, before concluding back in Glasgow.

Preparation was paramount for this venture, particularly given the unpredictable Scottish weather, known for its rapid shifts from intense heat to heavy rain. The cyclists focused on versatile layering and sensible clothing choices to accommodate a wide spectrum of conditions while minimizing luggage weight. The lead-up to the trip saw one of the riders engrossed in fine-tuning his cycling equipment. His Condor Fratello received a few key modifications: more durable Vittoria Randoneur 28c tires, an 11-34t cassette for enhanced gear range, and a Tubus Fly rack for carrying essentials. The primary luggage consisted of Karrimor 15-liter panniers, a Pinnacle 2-liter bar bag for tools, and an Alpkit Glider 50 frame bag for on-the-go supplies, maintaining an additional weight of approximately 10kg. A strategic decision was made to opt for hostels over camping, streamlining logistics and providing comfortable rest stops.

Unlike their earlier, more spontaneous journey, this trip necessitated advance bookings for accommodations and ferry crossings. Utilizing Scottish Youth Hostels (SYHA) proved to be an excellent choice, offering friendly wardens, clean rooms, cooking facilities, and reasonable prices. Travel to Glasgow involved a daytime train journey, as overnight services did not accommodate bicycles. The journey was made pleasant by an unexpected conversation with a fellow cycling and music enthusiast.

The first leg of the tour involved a ferry crossing from Ardrossan to Arran. Upon disembarking at Brodick, the 23-kilometer ride to Lochranza presented a surprising challenge: a steep 15% incline on the A841, a detail forgotten over the years. The subsequent descent into Lochranza, however, offered an exhilarating reward. The following day, an unladen ride along the western shore and back over the mountain pass to Brodick and Lochranza provided a more familiar, albeit still challenging, experience. A chance encounter with a fellow cycling couple in a café highlighted the unexpected connections that travel can bring.

The journey continued to Islay, reached via a short ferry from Claonaig and a scenic country road ride to Kennacraig. The destination on Islay was Port Askaig, a change from their previous arrival point of Port Ellen, which meant a two-hour ride against a strong headwind to Port Charlotte. Despite the rainy conditions, the cyclists appreciated the cooler temperatures after weeks of a heatwave in southern England. The warm welcome at Port Charlotte Hostel, run by Karl and Lorna, allowed them to settle in early and enjoy the idyllic surroundings, observing locals jumping into the sea from the jetty. A conversation with Lorna led to a reunion with Suzanne, the hostel's former warden from their initial visit, sparking nostalgic reflections on travel before the age of widespread internet and mobile phones.

No visit to Islay is complete without a distillery tour. The friends explored Kincholan and Bowmore distilleries, where one of them purchased a small bottle of 12-year-old whisky as a memento, opting for practicality over bulk. An excellent meal at the Port Charlotte Hotel, with its extensive whisky menu, provided a perfect evening. The return journey to the mainland saw them benefit from a tailwind, making for a much faster ride back to Port Askaig and then a longer ferry to Oban. In Oban, a chance to assist a couple struggling with a jammed Brompton bicycle underscored the camaraderie among cyclists.

The ride from Oban to Crianlarich offered a mixed experience, with delightful quiet roads contrasting with the busy A85 sections. The use of a rear radar proved invaluable for anticipating traffic. To avoid the particularly busy A82 on their final day to Glasgow, they opted for a short train ride and then enjoyed the scenic old Loch Lomond road. However, increasing traffic near Dumbarton prompted another train journey directly into Glasgow. Their final Scottish hostel, a magnificent Victorian Townhouse overlooking a park, provided a grand end to their journey.

In Glasgow, Rob returned his hired bicycle from Gearbikes on Gibson Street, a service that proved reliable and well-priced, even including luggage storage. On the final morning, the other cyclist navigated the bustling streets of Glasgow to reach Central Station for his train home. A helpful encounter with fellow cyclists pointed him in the right direction, concluding an enriching week that reinforced the bonds of friendship and the timeless appeal of exploring Western Scotland by bike, regardless of the weather's whims.